I was backing up out of a steep driveway too quickly and bottomed the front end out with a loud crunch. When I got home I noticed an oil drip, so I jacked her up and found my oil pan had a 1" crack along the rear edge adjacent to a prior dent. Since I have to pull the pan (and raise the motor up to put in some new Schumacher Poly Loc mounts), I thought I'd replace it with something with more capacity. I know Moroso pans won't work, so does anybody else make a pan that will clear the idler arm? I don't mind doing a bit of work with my trusty BFH, as long as I don't have to try to replicate the whole recess in the 187 pan.
Joined: Sun Oct 09 2005, 05:02PM
Location: ALLEN PARK, MI.
Posts: 2007
NO oil pans are comercially made for C body cars. Either cut up and weld an aftermarket pan, or modify a factory pan for a deep sump. You will need to fab up a pick-up tube to match! No an easy venture, is it? &| Tony P.
The CFR pan is about the only option for added capacity. It will not require the BFH, just a SFH. However, if you whacked a stock pan, proceed with extreme caution with the CFR. Pay very close attention to the pictures and descriptions of the ground clearance! They hang way down!
I found this CFR pan on E-pray, it looks like the sides are sloped enough to work, and it is really inexpensive. About how big a dent do I have to hammer into the side, and will this indentation interfere with the baffle? (see pic) It looks like I will have to weld on some kind of skid plate or a piece of angle iron onto the K member to protect it (appears to hang down pretty low).
Joined: Sun Oct 09 2005, 05:02PM
Location: ALLEN PARK, MI.
Posts: 2007
Well ask yourself this. This is a REAR SUMP oil pan and C body cars are CENTER SUMP. I still doubt this will clear the center link! Not only that, the pick-up tube block hole is at the front of the block. This pick-up will probably NOT work! Not only that, if a tube is constructed to reach the rear sump, you would need to fab a tube "brace" mid point to prevent tube breakage. Think long flagpole. Vibration could break the tube.....and we would not want that! Tony P.
Joined: Sun Oct 09 2005, 05:02PM
Location: ALLEN PARK, MI.
Posts: 2007
Ok now...I'm studing the pic better! Is this meant to be a rear sump or front now? I'd need to measure this puppy in person! If this sump is intended to be like the factory pan then, I don't think it could clear a C body crossmember...or can it? Looks like it may work with a B body then? Tony P.
Joined: Sun Oct 09 2005, 05:02PM
Location: ALLEN PARK, MI.
Posts: 2007
Ok, ok! Now am I seeing the small indentions for the dip stick side at the bottom of the lower pick? If THAT'S true, the an idler indention would need to be made on the other side! Tony P.
we'll have to wait until NFURY8 gets back to us about this being the correct pan. It might work better turned around like this (see pic), but then is there enough of the pan sticking out forward to clear the K member?
Joined: Sun Oct 09 2005, 05:02PM
Location: ALLEN PARK, MI.
Posts: 2007
Ok, after reading all the old posts (5 pages worth) I think the sump is the same as factory. The short end is in the front. So I think everyone is saying it will not only clear the crossmember, but require small hammer action for idler clearence. A pan that's to good to be true? Hmmmm! Low riders may not want this though! Tony P.