Joined: Fri Dec 22 2006, 08:41PM
Location: Warrenton, Virginia
Posts: 1366
The last couple of weekends we've had pretty decent weather here for working on cars.. A friend of mine and I installed Daniel Stern's headlamp upgrade, including new wiring and Cibie headlights.
I basically bought everything from him...a headlight wiring harness, and new Cibie CSR low beam lights and a somewhat cheaper Cibie high beam lights. I wanted to install everything so that I took the power for the headlamps directly from the alternator instead of the battery (which Daniel recommends for older Mopars).
The "custom harness" he supplied was designed to use the battery as a power source, however, instead of the alternator. We modified it to suit our needs by lengthening the ground wire (so it would reach back to the battery) and the "trigger" wires so they would reach and connect into the original harness at the driver's side low beam connector.
Once all was assembled, the results are quite good!! The headlights are VERY bright, no matter if the car is at idle or tooling down the road !banana I was a bit surprised though.........at idle, with the low and high beams on, the alt gauge still registered a significant discharge.....I thought his wiring set up would take the alternator gauge OUT of the major load carry portion of the circuit....Maybe it does, but perhaps the "low load" side of the circuit that feeds the relays still ends up putting a significant "drag" on the electrical system....
Anyone know why or have any ideas of what's happening here????????
I installed 100W landing lights for the high beams through a relay. Ran them from the battery not the alt. When the highs are on the alt is charging even at idle.
It is recommended to tie in on the alternator side so you can draw your power without having to drag the extra load through the amp gauge. If the amp gauge is still dropping, then the alternator isn't producing enough power. This could be more an issue with the voltage regulator.
Where do you stand on the alternator and regulator? How big is the alternator and is the regulator mechanical or solid state? Your shop should be able to quickly check the charging system with the lights on. If not, most parts stores can.
Joined: Sun Feb 26 2006, 08:46PM
Location: Kingston,Ontario
Posts: 5622
65Coronet7165 wrote ...
.... I wanted to install everything so that I took the power for the headlamps directly from the alternator instead of the battery (which Daniel recommends for older Mopars).
I was a bit surprised though.........at idle, with the low and high beams on, the alt gauge still registered a significant discharge.....I thought his wiring set up would take the alternator gauge OUT of the major load carry portion of the circuit....Maybe it does, but perhaps the "low load" side of the circuit that feeds the relays still ends up putting a significant "drag" on the electrical system....
Anyone know why or have any ideas of what's happening here????????
Obviously,Mr.Stern had not read up on the MAD conversion on older Mopars.Again,his kit is for all makes/models of cars--not just Mopars.
With the MAD-you can hook up anything anywhere in the harness since the ammeter guage is already bypassed. !stars !stars !stars !stars If you had not done the MAD on your car yet--you are putting the donkey ahead of the carrot
Joined: Sun Feb 26 2006, 08:46PM
Location: Kingston,Ontario
Posts: 5622
As for alternators,I have a Powermaster alternator. Looks stock but has 70 amp guts to run everything including upgraded lighting and stereo systems. http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/mopar.html
<span class='smallblacktext'>[ Edited Mon Feb 16 2009, 06:17PM ]</span>
Joined: Fri Dec 22 2006, 08:41PM
Location: Warrenton, Virginia
Posts: 1366
Well, I've got a fairly new 60 amp Chrysler alternator and a Petronix electronic voltage regulator that's in a case that looks like the original points reg. Drove again today and didn't get any large discharge readings......I was driving along at about 25 mph though...not idling in drive as I was yesterday. I'll have to check this out further.
Cbarge, I've been hoping to avoid doing the MAD upgrade. That was the primary reason for originally considering Daniel Stern's lighting relays and upgraded wiring. I was hoping to save the alternator guage and my toggle headlight switch by taking the major load off of them...
I'm not real confident about going in and changing the wiring around on the car. Daniel supplied a ready made harness which we had to modify slightly (and that much was within my comfort zone as far as wiring goes). If MAD offered a harness or something a bit easier to understand I'd go for it.
If you have any suggestions or if you could post some instructions I'd be happy to reconsider.
Joined: Sun Feb 26 2006, 08:46PM
Location: Kingston,Ontario
Posts: 5622
Stern's headlight upgrade will not help the rest of your wiring!! It is for the headlights--that's all!! Indeed it takes a HUGE load of the headight switch--the relays do that.. You still have high current going through your ammeter. It will leave you stranded When it shorts out you will have nothing no lights inside the car,no ignition,no horn- NOTHING!! You will have no choice then but to remove the dash.
Do it now or do it later
The MAD wiring itself is simple.The hard labour is removing and reinstalling the dash cluster,crawling under the dash,identifying wires and main harness splices,and threading wire through the firewall... !stars !stars !stars To help you out,I will grab a junk harness and show you where to cut and splice.Also show on the car where wires get installed.
I can also show you how to catch a C on fire with just one wire if you dont listen.(My New Yorker is a burn victim)
Give me a few days.
<span class='smallblacktext'>[ Edited Mon Feb 16 2009, 06:39PM ]</span>
Joined: Sun Feb 26 2006, 08:46PM
Location: Kingston,Ontario
Posts: 5622
If you dont mind me asking how much was the DS headlight kit?Cost on bulbs? Any pics of the harness you bought? How about pics of how bright them thar light are??? Thanks <span class='smallblacktext'>[ Edited Mon Feb 16 2009, 06:39PM ]</span>
Joined: Fri Dec 22 2006, 08:41PM
Location: Warrenton, Virginia
Posts: 1366
Thanks Leaburn, your a great help as usual !hat
My total with Stern was close to $590! The wiring harness was probably the cheapest item at $78.00 The harness included the relays, wires to the power source (with fuses), wires with the proper connections to hook up the lights I ordered, a trigger wire that connects to the original harness at the connector for the driver's side low beam light, and a ground wire intended to return to batt negative post.
OHHH, and I'll take some pics of what we did tomorrow. You may not be able to see much.....we pretty well concealed or at least put items out of sight if possible.
The other items are on his site.....CSR lowbeams at $111 each! H4 high beams at $74 each.....and I ordered stop lamps and backup lamps from him that are supposed to be brighter than the old ones.
The friend who helped me is better at this than I am. At least he has some experience working on auto wiring and he has the tools and most of the various "Stuff" needed to make a complete and neat job. We did the headlight upgrade together and he has volunteered to help with the MAD upgrade too (just asked him before I started this post). With his help, and your instructions, I feel confident enough to takle this! !cowboy or !nervous <span class='smallblacktext'>[ Edited Mon Feb 16 2009, 06:51PM ]</span>